November 1st, 2006
The lotus scented tea and how best to enjoy it
The family of Tien and Loan is the biggest lotus stamina supplier in Hanoi.
In one of his writings, Hai Thuong Lan Ong Le Huu - Trac, a well-known Vietnamese scholar and physician in the 18th century, described the lotus plant as follows: “Though it grows in mud, the lotus plant is never affected by the bad smell arising from the mud. Instead, it absorbs the fresh and pure air from nature that makes its stem, flowers and leaves valuable herbal medicines”.
Ngo Thi Trinh, a woman who owns a lotus scented tea shop named “Ninh Huong” at 22 Hang Dieu Street in Hanoi, is widely known to both Vietnamese and foreign tea lovers. Trinh has processed lotus tea for quite a while and her skill in this field is unparalleled. Talking with her about how she makes scented tea, one realizes the reason why her product is in so much demand by her devoted customers.
Normally, one kilogram of dry tea will be scented with 1.4 kilograms of lotus stamen collected from about 1,400 lotus flowers. Fresh lotus flowers must be used right after they are cut from the lake to preserve the stamina fragrance. Tea is arranged in layers in a tightly covered glazed terracotta jar with a layer of lotus stamina in between each layer of tea. The mixture is kept in the jar for two days and then set out to dry for one day.
The dried lotus stamen is then separated from the tea using a sieve and the whole process using fresh lotus stamen is repeated. It takes eight sequences of scenting and drying the tea before the tea can absorb fully the lotus scent.
Drying the tea is a time consuming and painstaking process. The mixture of tea and lotus stamen is put into small tracing paper bags. A tightly covered jar of hot water is placed between two tea bags.
The jar and bags are wrapped in a thick paper bag which is covered with blankets to maintain the heat. The tea is dried from heat within the jar.
Tea artisan Truong Xuan (second from left) introducing the lotus scented tea.
When scenting tea with lotus stamen, the mixture must be kept compressed inside the jar so that the fragrance cannot escape. If there is the aroma of lotus in the processing room, this indicates the process is not well done and the tea will not be perfect. Trinh has to spend almost one month to get a batch of tasty lotus scented tea.
Preparing the lotus tea to enjoy its fine qualities is an art. Truong Xuan, an artisan in tea making, describes the customary method he uses when preparing this superior refreshment. A bronze teapot is heated up in the fireplace and because they hold heat for a long time, glazed terracotta teacups are prepared. Truong Xuan prefers to use cups that are either white or pink inside to highlight the amber colour of the tea. Before combining the water and tea, both the teapot and cups are drenched with hot water followed by placing the teapot in a large bowl. After merging hot water with the tea he allows the mixture to steep for five minute before serving the tea in the terracotta cups.
Xuan confides that the first cup is not always the best tasting. It is the second or third serving that leaves a taste of sweetness and fragrance in the drinker’s mouth. A good tea can be served several times until it gets too thin.
A sip of lotus tea will also help reduce quickly the heat and tiredness of a scorching summer day.
From: VNP